Friday, May 1, 2009

Sharper Photos might be just around the corner for you!

Have you been noticing that your pictures are not sharp? They have this distracting sort of softness and blur? Well, 90% of the time, its NOT your camera. Its the person behind it, you.
That's right, most of the times, you are the reason for the picture not turning out sharp. When i say this, i mean that the picture might look OK on the camera screen, but on the computer screen or at 100% zoom, you will notice that its not sharp. The reason: Camera Shake!!

How to defeat camera shake? Well, you have to follow certain procedures while shooting in shake-vulnerable situations. Read on to find out what you can do to avoid camera shake.
  • Everyone has shaky hands. You only need to control the amount of shake and completely avoid it.
  • Shake is more visible/obvious at shutter speeds lesser than (slower than) 1/80 for normal hand shake.
  • As a general thumb rule, keep your shutter speed at a minimum of the reciprocal of your focal length. Example, if you are shooting with an 18-55 lens at 55mm, then make sure you shoot at shutter speeds of 1/60 or faster. If you are shooting at 200mm, shoot at 1/200 or faster. This really works. Don't be afraid to increase ISO until you can shoot at fast speeds. Else get a fast lens.
  • By all means get lenses with VR (Vibration Reduction). They really work well.
  • Improve your shooting posture if you still get shake. Brace your left elbow against your chest and cradle the camera firmly with the left hand. Hold the camera firmly against your face with the right hand. Don't be afraid to stick the camera right into your face, it helps!
  • Finally, hold your breath when you click! This helps the upper body remain still.
  • If your camera has continuous shooting mode, then use it!! Take a couple of shots continuously and pick the sharpest one.
  • Always, check the picture at 100% zoom on your camera screen or computer for camera shake/blur, because you don't usually notice it at reduced size.
Those are the basic guidelines to reduce camera shake and hence get sharper pictures.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

adityaprabhu.com

Hey all! Just registered my very own web page finally today! Its currently under construction. But until its done, you can relax and enjoy a cool sideshow of my photos by visiting the website!!

Visit: www.adityaprabhu.com

Also, i'm thinking of moving to Wordpress blogs from here since its more powerful.
Thanks!!

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Goodbye D40. Hello Nikon D5000 !


Today Nikon finally launched the new D5000! It replaces the D40/D60 and is the younger brother of the D90. It looks promising with 12.3 MP and 720p HD video, not to mention the 180 deg tilting LCD! The performance should be as good as the D90/D300 with only loss of some convenience features like absence of WB, ISO and QUAL shortcut buttons on the back/top, AF Settings, etc. Here are some links to check it out for yourself:
DP Review, Nikon USA and the D5000 Micro-site.



As an EDIT: This camera's price range makes this fall right in between the D60 and the D90. Hence its not exactly an alternative to the D40 which is still in production as of May 15th 2009.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

An article on Photography

Hi! Here's an excellent article that i read on Ken Rockwell's website. Have a read, it will really help you understand the idea of photography in general. Reading articles teaches new stuff and helps improve techniques and compositions. Also, this particular article is about photography in general and how one should have a drive and passion towards it.

From Ken Rockwell's webpage:

"Photography is a means of expression, just like writing or painting.

Because photography is a means of expression, you have to have something to say, or your photos will suck.

Blindly pointing a camera and then expecting to whip it up later in Photoshop always results in crap.

Buying a Nikon D3X, Leica M7 or Canon 1Ds Mk III and expecting it to make sharp photos doesn't happen. Sharp photos come from sharp minds expressing ideas clearly.

You don't need to be able to express whatever you're trying to say in words or any other form, so long as whatever you are trying to express comes out in your photos. Composition is key.

Photography is an art which, like most art forms, happens to use some technology, but photography still has nothing to do with technology

Because some technology is involved, there are always legions of unseeing people who just don't get it. If you're not an artist, it's easy to miss the whole point and spend a lifetime reading books (and websites like this) fretting the tech details and buying too much equipment, instead of learning how to recognize what makes good photos and doing it.

Once you know the basics of how to adjust the camera you already own, no amount of technical knowledge or more equipment is going to make your photos any better.

I know. I was an engineer and the first twenty-three years of my photography sucked for exactly this reason. I could tell you every aspect of lens design, or explain bicubic convolution, sub-pixel processing and JPG quantization matrices 20 years ago, but I still had no idea what made a good photo.

I didn't start making good photos until I started looking at what was in my photos, instead of looking for how sharp they were. You can see everything you need to see in a photo from arm's length, or even as a thumbnail.

I finally learned to pay attention to what I liked or disliked about each photo, and doing more of what made photos I liked, and less or what made photos I didn't.

Photography is nothing but applying your powers of observation. No tech knowledge is needed today; all you need to know technically is if you want your photo darker or lighter (use your Exposure Compensation control) or a different color (use your White Balance control).

You need to recognize what you want and in which way to turn which knob to get you there, but everything else is art: where you are, where you point the camera, and what you're seeing.

Cameras and lenses all do the same thing. Don't even start to worry about lens sharpness until you can make great photos with what you already have. If you can't make great photos with a disposable camera, you can't make great photos until you learn to see.

Worse, if you're still learning (I know I still am), the more complex cameras throw up more adjustments and menus in the way of seeing great photos You'll get worse photos with better gear!

This is always obvious when people send me technically decent, but completely uninspired photos. If they weren't stoked when they took it, and if they don't get off on it being a good photo, no one else will either.

A friend once told me about how sickening it was to judge a photo contest. Numerous entries sucked hard. There was nothing in the photos, yet people thought that if they cranked up the saturation and sharpening in Photoshop enough that maybe the computer would find something interesting in these photos.

Nope. All it does is make these photos hurt our eyes. I get wild colors by pointing cameras at colorful things, and I get sharp photos by looking for hard cross-lighting.

Too many people need to lay off the saturation button and lay hard on their camera's DELETE button. If it sucks, it sucks and it's not getting any better. Try a different angle, a different point of view, different lighting or anything, but try it while you're still out shooting and can do something about it.

Don't shoot like your teacher. It becomes all too obvious who is learning from whom, and who was the teacher and who was the student.

Learn how to express yourself from your teachers. Learn the two trivial-to-set but critical-to-making-great-pictures basics of how to set your exposure compensation and white balance, and you're done learning technique. Let your teachers show you to express yourself more strongly, but remember that the key word is to express yourself.

Never try to copy your teacher's, or anyone's photos. Only they do what they do best. No one can be them better than they already are. You can be better at being yourself better than anyone, so follow your own impetus when making your photos. Shoot what you want, how you want it, but make it your own. Never try to do anything to impress anyone other than yourself.

So what makes good photos?

Whatever turns you on. Shoot, look at your work, and keep doing more of what you like.

If it's good, you'll see it. If you don't see what you like, try other things until you do. The key is to keep trying different things, not improve on something you dislike.

I found that my favorite work is what I shoot as day turns into night, or back again.

I also discovered that even though I shoot everything, the shots I show are almost always shot with my widest lens. Now I'll often go out with just an utrawide lens, and leave the other junk locked up.

Don't do what you've seen others do. Only do what you want to do. Be yourself; not someone else. "

Monday, April 6, 2009

Photoshop Tutorial 01: Watermarking!


Hey shutterbugs! So you guys clicked some cool pictures and you want to put your ID on it, what do you do? Watermark your photos!!

First, some info: (Skip if you are in a hurry!) Visible Watermarking is a process of placing your logo, signature or contact info or just your name on a picture to digitally secure your photograph, usually irreversibly, from theft. It is usually mistaken with a digital signature, which on the other hand is actually a logo or sign that is placed at the border of a photo to identify the author or creator.
Invisible Watermarking is a process of irreversibly embedding Copyright information into a digital photo. It is not visible on the picture itself, but can be detected via watermark detectors. All DSLRs have an option to embed the Author info, copyright info and other custom text into each and every file that comes out of it. So if you plan to steal a photo, you'll need a good lawyer! ;)

OK, now to the tutorial! Yes, this is officially the first tutorial that I'm posting. I always though I'll make one, but a few friends asked for this one, so here you go people. Note that this requires basic knowledge of Adobe Photoshop or whatever image editing software you are used to. There are loads of tutorials to learn photoshop basics. Just remember the magic word: "GOOGLE".

Lets begin
:

You will need :
  1. Photo editing software. I prefer Adobe Photoshop and i will be using this software for all my tutorials.
  2. A photo! Duh!
  3. Some good looking fonts!
  4. Artistic and Aesthetic Sense
Step 1:
Load up a copy of your photo on Photoshop (PS). Watermarking is the last phase of processing your photo for the web and you will need to have it at a low resolution of 72 dpi (dots per inch).
To do this, after you have finished all your color correction (CC), Levels, etc., in photoshop:
Go to Image > Image Size
In the window,
Uncheck "Resample Image" and set the resolution to 72.
Ckick OK.

Step 2:

Use the "Text Tool" to make a new text layer on the photo. Type whatever you want (for example: "WATERMARK 2009") with your font of choice and then hit CTRL+ENTER to confirm. Resize the layer using free transform (shortcut CTRL+T) and place it where ever you want. Hit ENTER. This is faster and more pracitcal than playing around with the font sizes.

Step 3:
In the "Layers" panel, your new text layer will be visible. Now, you can adjust its Opacity (which is the opposite of Transparency) to whatever value you like. This makes your layer transparent if set to 0% or completely opaque at 100%. Play with it till you are satisfied.
As an additional step change the layer's blending mode to "Overlay" from the drop down list. This makes the layer adopt the luminance from the layer beneath itself keeping the color from the same layer. (Click the following image to enlarge)



Step 4:
Save your work as usual as a JPEG.

Thats basically it and you're done.
This is the very basic stuff you need to know and the rest you can experiment yourself.

Tips and Advanced Stuff:
  • Always make a copy of your photos before you edit them. I have copies of all orignals and the edited ones in two different sizes (one for the web and one for printing).
  • If you want to put this: © symbol, the easiest way is to type ALT+0169 on a Windows PC.
  • As an advanced step, you can add dropshadow or glow to your text layer, but remember it should not distract the viewer from enjoying your photo.
  • Still advanced, if you have a logo or a text layer that you use often, make sure the background is transparent (delete the background layer) and then you can convert the text/logo layer into a "Smart Object". You can later import this smart object into any photo via the Import option. Thats what i do to watermark my photos with my logo. Its so quick it takes around 10 seconds to watermark once this is done.
If you guys have any questions or issues, leave a comment and i will try my best to help. As usual, i do this out of my interest to help people and i take my time out for it. So i hope you find this stuff useful. If it has helped you, leave a comment so i know!

Keep Clickin'!

Friday, March 27, 2009

My Workflow

Hi all, this is my basic photography workflow.
I shoot JPEG 90% of the time. I try to get the best results from the camera itself thereby reducing post processing work.
So, firstly, i have setup Adobe Lightroom to import my photos as soon as my camera/memory card is connected to the pc. Also, i have set LR to import photos into new folders named according to the date of shooting.
Once the photos are imported into LR, i start Flagging the ones that are fine (No shake, blur, colors are fine or not, other than the ones that i delete directly from the camera if they are not worth it at all) and rejecting the ones that are not. Then i have LR delete the rejected photos from the disk. After that i usually "Stack" similar shots together so the catalog looks neat and organized. This makes it easier to search for photos. Sometimes i also insert keywords into my photos like "sunset", "flowers" etc so its quick to search through those files. Thats all for the cataloging!

Next, if i'm editing a photo, i use LR's Develop module. I do all of my PP work here like Curves, Exposure, WB, Hue/Saturation, etc except Sharpening which if needed i do it Photoshop. Once the editing is done, i make a virtual copy in LR and export one of them to a smaller size for the web. I have setup LR to open the exported file in Photoshop automatically.
Once Photoshop opens with the exported file, i choose to sharpen it if i want. Finally, i add the logo/watermark and frame the picture. I save it with maximum quality compression and i'm done!

Thats pretty much it.

Happy Ugadi,
Have a great weekend!

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Photo: Gerbera Flower.



Click here to see the photo page on Flickr!

Picture Information:
Camera: Nikon D300
Lens: Nikon 55-200 AF-S DX Nikkor with VR.
Exposure mode: Aperture Priority
Focal Length: 160mm
Shutter speed: 1/60 seconds
Aperture: f/5.3
ISO Sensitivity: ISO 400
White Balance: Sunny/ Direct Sunlight, trimmed to one point warmer.

Post Processing:
Adobe Lightroom: Slight contrast increase via Curves.
Adobe Photoshop: Added my logo and exported to low resolution jpeg to suit the web.

Coyright: All rights reserved. ©Aditya Prabhu.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

What is Bokeh?

Hi folks! You must have wondered (if you've ever come across it), what the word "bokeh" means!
Well, bokeh is the term used to refer to the out-of-focus points of light in a picture. Thats all. So in the blurred out part in a picture, bright discs caused by illuminated points, are simply called bokeh. When the DOF is shallow, there's only a definite small planar area in focus and the rest of it is blurred and out-of-focus. The points of light, which are out-of-focus, appear like discs of respective brightness and color. This part of the image is referred to as bokeh.
Also, a friend of mine, Nidhi, brought to my notice after reading a magazine that Bokeh actually means "blurred" in Japanese! So there you go guys! Thanks Nidhi!

You may also hear the phrase "HBW" quite often on the internet, which actually stands for Happy Bokeh Wednesday. Its just a phrase which is used to categorise a picture that has a lot bokeh in it.

Notice the upper right corner of the image, the points of light appear like discs. This is bokeh.

©Aditya Prabhu | 2009

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

The D300. What a camera!

So i finally got a call from my camera dealer telling me that the D300 is finally back in stock. I placed an order, waited for it to come for 2 days. It finally arrived today! I rushed there, grabbed the box, checked if everything was in order and was in one piece! And i couldn't help but to keep pausing during the "check-up" and just admiring the D300's tank-like weather proof body.
First impressions, it felt firm, much heavier and bigger than the D40. It felt like a Pro camera that is out to do its duty and no nonsense. I took around half-an hour to set up the camera after referring the user manual and Ken Rockwell's D300 User Guide. After that, i went out to the garden and clicked a few pcitures. Man, they were just outstanding!! The colors were just the way i like them! Well saturated and super vibrant. Even better than in real! And the exposure metering is spot-on. This is one camera that definitely does not come in the way of making a great photo. It lets the photographer just shoot and enjoy. As i said, no nonsense. I love the D300. Already!

I would like to thank my parents, my dearest sister Amulya, Divya, Diji and people close to my heart for encouraging me to go ahead. Thanks to all you friends on flickr for the encouragement! You Rock! [Feels like i'm giving an Oscar award acceptance speach??! ;p ]

Well, thats all for the D300 raving. Its back to making photos! Take care! Until next post, Ciao!

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Moving up the ladder!

Hi guys! I just noticed i have more followers now! (3 to be precise! LOL!) But thats great! I'm happy my blog is useful. Please feel free to leave questions or comments anytime.

Ok, so whats with the "moving up the ladder?" thing? Well, I sold my Nikon D40 recently. And, i'm getting myself the Nikon D300 ! I'm pretty damn excited about it and i cant wait to get my hands on it. I will surely let you guys know how it feels to shoot with the tank that is the D300.

I miss my D40 currently as i'm camera-less for the past few days. I love the results i got from my D40. The color, resolution and feel are simply great! Then why am i moving to a more expensive camera? Well, i hate to say this, but there are points in time when you DO outgrow your equipment. The D300 offers much MUCH more features than a D40. If you really want to know what the D300 gets you, then go here: Nikon D300 review from DP Review.

I'm presently in the worst phase possible. No camera in hand, Waiting for a camera that i just can't stop thinking about, i've missed quite a few photo oportunities- whether they are stunning sunsets, birds in my backyard or a beautiful location that i visited. And guess what!? The camera is not in stock anywhere!! :( So, i have to wait. And i can literally feel every second pass by waiting for a call from the camera dealer to tell me that its in finally.

Rumour control: Nikon was expected to replace the Nikon D40 today. It didn't happen. Maybe it will happen very soon though. However, the D40 is a great DSLR for any beginner.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

"Why are my photos not so colorful?"

Hi all! Recently a few people have asked me this and i really don't have anything much to say in return! Well, let me tell you all, you don't just click a picture and expect it to be colorful and vibrant. Its not like that at all. You really do have to go and find colorful stuff. You really need to be passionate about it. Photography is not easy because you have a digital camera and a pirated copy of Adobe Photoshop. Everybody can learn to use these things, but sadly Its got nothing to do with colors, light and stuff. But i'm not saying that its entirely required for you to take a great picture and it will be spectacular straight out from the camera. This is possible. You have to be at really good places, at the right moment and have to be pointing your camera at the right place. This has been said by many professional photographers and i'm simply echoing it.

What should you do if you are really disappointed with your photos? Think about them. Try to understand whats missing. Ask yourself: Whats supposed to be there that will make it better? Is it possible for you to obtain a better result just by shooting with different settings? Experiment! Is it possible to get a better picture by using manual mode? Try it and see!

Also, if you have observed a sunset, you will have noticed that every minute, there is a change in the light. The colors also change drastically. Make good use of the time, the weather and the light available. Its simple and basic physics that say that colors are formed beacause of light. So keep shooting under different light conditions. I guarantee you that you will get better results.

Remember that taking a good picture requires some thought before you click. Just think what can make the shot better. If you see something interesting, you will instantly think of taking a picture. But just hold on one second and observe the subject. What can you do to make it more interesting? Maybe a totally different angle? How about a different background? How would it look if the sun is shining on it during the evening? Think. Compose your shot well. As for the colors, you can't make something colorful thats really not. If it has a lot of color and vibrance, it will show in the photo. You need not worry. Just make sure your camera is set the right way. Ofcourse you can add saturation in photoshop. But thats not really great. Anyone can do that. So try to be creative and get the results you want, not by clicking things at random and expecting them to be super-colorful, but by finding interesting things around you, thinking of the shot and then clicking it. Later, if you feel you can present it in a better/artistic way then use whatever editing software you want. Its all how you want it to be. Its art. There are no rules really.
Enjoy your photography finally and stop worrying about all technical stuff.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

What is White Balance and How to choose the right one?

Hi there! Last post was pretty geeky by all means! But its hard to explain ISO and DOF in simple terms! I hope it helped! Today, lets see what White Balance (WB) is and how it can be used for normal usage as well as creatively to get the right mood and colors.

White Balance: As far as my knowledge goes, White Balance setting is the hue shift that is needed to make the color 'White' appear White! Simple. The light and its color has a major influence on everything it falls on. As a small physics refresher, we know that any object that absorbs all light is black. Any object that keeps certain colored light rays and reflects the rest will keep the color of the reflected light. Hence, if an object is pure red, its because it absorbs all colors of light and only reflects red rays of light. (By rays i mean the red part of the spectrum of visible light).
OK that was to only make you realize again that photography is majorly concerned with light.

Lets start by taking an example of a white wall in a room that is lit by a light bulb and hence the whole room looks orange-ish/yellow. Now, if you want the wall to look white and not orange, you have to change the White Balance setting in your camera. This setting is usually available on most new cameras irrespective of its class (i.e., DSLR or P&S or even Camera Phone). If you are aware of the available options, you will have to set the WB to Tungsten (named after the filament that glows in a light bulb). Now, your shot will look more natural and neutral. It will make the white wall look naturally white. Thats basically what White balance does. The usual settings for WB are Auto (the camera decides the WB depending on the hues of the light), Direct Sunlight, Flash, Cloudy, Tungsten, Shade and Flourescent. All these have their own purpose and effect. To understand the effect, first, one must know what it means when someone says "the color is warm" or when "its a cooler color". Its simple. The color Red and its shades are called Warm colors. The color Blue and its shades are called Cool colors.

Creatively, the WB setting can also be used to change the way a scene looks. For example, look at the following picture.


These are two separate shots, each having its own mood. They were shot back to back. The image on the left was shot with Cloudy WB and the one on the right was shot with Tungsten WB. Tungsten WB adds blue to the picture thinking that you are in an area which is lit by tungsten bulbs and hence you want to neutralise the image by adding blue to the red shades. The other picture looks warm. Its because the Cloudy WB adds a nice warm tone to the image thinking that you are in a cloudy, gray area and the picture needs some warmth. Clearly, i have used it to the get the effect i want and i prefer the one with the Tungsten WB. I love the contrasting reds and blues. The blues are missing in the the other image. There is only some slight violet tint at the horizon. Anyway, basically what you can achieve with different WB settings is really nice and creative. Once you understand what WB setting does what, its easy to get what you want.

Some pointers:
When shooting normal situations, Auto WB works for me and it does a good job.
When shooting pictures of people in a restaurant that has a lot of light bulbs, use Tungsten.
When shooting sunsets, if you want it to appear very warm, then choose between Cloudy WB or Shade. For a milder warm tone, use Direct Sunlight.
For outdoor shots after sunset or before sunrise, try the Tungsten WB to get much bluer skies.
Keep experimenting. Setting the right WB will take your picture from mediocre to Great!

Happy Weekend!

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

What's ISO and Depth Of Field (DOF)?

Hi guys! Earlier you read about shutter speed and aperture. In automatic camera modes, these factors are automatically calculated and and set for every shot depending on the light on the subject. Other than the shutter speed and aperture, there are other factors that do affect how the image looks. One of these factors is the Depth of Field or D.O.F in short.

Depth Of Field means how much is in focus from near to far. That is, when the lens has focused on a certain subject, the areas closer to the lens and areas farther from the lens are out of focus. This is because, the focal point or point of focus lies at the focal plane of the subject and at other places far and near the lens, the image will be blurred due to loss of focus. Imagine that there are a number of laser beams attached to the circumference of the lens. All these beams converge at a certain point depending on the focus. Now, the point where all the beams converge, is the point of focus and will be the sharpest in the image. Now, the beams converge and then diverge after meeting. Hence, the places where the beams are divergent are the places where the image will be blurred or out of focus.
If its confusing, then just forget it. Lets just see how it can be controlled. For a shallow DOF, (that is, only the areas that are meant to be in focus are sharp and other parts of the image are blurred), the aperture must be large. That is, if the aperture is say f1.8, the DOF will be much shallower than when the aperture is smaller say f8.0. In general, for Portraits and people shots, the DOF may be shallow (aperture may be bigger) and for Landscape pictures, usually everything should be in sharp focus whether the objects are near the lens or far, and hence the DOF must be deep (that is the aperture must be smaller).

ISO is a standard number denoting a camera's sensitivity to light. The higher the number, the more sensitive to light the camera will be. The more sensitive it is, the more noise it gathers and hence, high ISO images will have noise (grainy). Most new DSLRs have excellent high ISO performance and the images are often very usable even at ISO 1600 and sometimes ISO3200.
ISO is generally pronounced by saying each letter separately. It is the same as ASA which used to be the way sensitivities where numbered back in the 1980's.
OK, how do we use it? Simple, just set the lowest ISO possible to get the shutter speed and aperture you want. If you want a smaller aperture and a faster shutter speed, then increase the ISO. At low light, there is not enough light to shoot a picture at small apertures or faster shutter speeds. Just increase the ISO until you can use a fast enough shutter speed and/or a smaller aperture. Higher the ISO, more the noise. This is less in newer cameras because of how technology just gets better. Also, on pocket cameras, the sensors are not as large as the sensors in DSLRs. Hence, the pixels are smaller and are less sensitive to light. This is why the low light shots taken with your P&S camera is much noisier. The highest ISO possible in P&S are generally ISO 800. New (and more expensive) DSLRs can pump up the ISOs to even 12800 and are still usable.
That's about it. Just use the lowest ISO at which you can comfortably shoot a picture.

Remember, all these technical stuff has nothing to do with taking good pictures. They only help you to understand what to do if you want to take control. Enjoy taking pictures the way you like. There is no thumb rule here!

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Shutter Speed and Aperture. What do these terms mean?

Hi everybody! I'm happy to see comments and suggestions from friends on my earlier posts! Thanks guys! As always, feel free to comment, ask a question or correct me if I'm wrong somewhere!
Today, i thought i will explain photographic terms like Shutter speed and Aperture. If you get a grasp on these terms and how they work, you will make good photos quickly without much fiddling around with settings and stuff. I will try and keep it short and simple. There's lots of detailed info on the internet.

Shutter Speed and Aperture:

As you've read (if you have!) on my earlier post about "How a Digital Camera makes a Picture?", when you take a picture, the shutter opens and closes for a small amount of time, during which the sensor is exposed to light. This duration, for which the shutter remains open is called Shutter Speed. It is usually expressed as a fraction of a second.

Example: This picture of water flowing out of a faucet was shot at a Shutter speed of 1/60 seconds.



What this means is the shutter remained open for one sixtieth of a second, or simply written 1/60. In general, 1/60 usually freezes slow moving subjects if they are well lit. Faster subjects like people and animals running, etc can be frozen with shutter speeds of 1/200 or faster.
The shutter speed alone, however will not decide how the picture looks. It also depends on the Aperture.
The Aperture is simply the size of the lens iris. It is the size of the opening, that allows light to enter. The bigger the opening, more light can enter at given shutter speed. It is just like how our eye pupils dilate or contract when they are exposed to bright or dark surroundings. The aperture also decides the Depth of Field (DOF) and i will discuss this in the next post.
Shutter speed and Aperture work together to create a well exposed image. Aperture is expressed as a fraction of the focal length. It is also denoted as "f-number" or "f-stop".

Lets consider another example:



This shot was made at a shutter speed of 1/200 and aperture of f/7.1 . This means, to get a well exposed image, the shutter had to remain open for 1/200 of a second, and the iris had to open to a size equal to 1/7.1 of the focal length. Now, the focal length at which this image was made is 31mm. Thus, the aperture is 31/7.1= approx 4.4 mm.
OK, now the fun part is that all the digital cameras and most modern film cameras calculate the shutter speed and aperture automatically. So you get perfectly exposed pictures always. But if you want to get creative, you will want to adjust these by yourself. That's where Manual mode come into play! More on shooting modes next time!

As a summary, remember, the most important factor in getting a good photo is the light. So, the shutter speed is used to control the time for which an exposure is made. Fast moving subjects need faster shutter speeds to freeze them, otherwise they will look like a blurry ghost like object. (This might be used sometimes to accentuate speed). The aperture is the size of the opening of the iris. It determines how much volume of light enters during the shutter duration. It might be a little confusing, but its simple physics. Just remember that the two terms are important and are linked closely.

Hope it helped. Next post will be about Depth Of Field and ISO.
Thanks!

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Switching to a DSLR from a Point & Shoot

Hi! So you are thinking of switching to a DLSR camera from your P&S. What should you expect? What should you know? Lets see...
Firstly, getting yourself a DSLR is not going to make your photos amazing right out of the box. Its infact going to be hard to get a decent image the first one week. Getting great pictures requires interest, patience, perseverance and ofcourse you should not be shy to carry your camera around people.

What you should expect if you are thinking of getting a DSLR:
  1. Great image quality in terms of sharpness, color rendition and exposure (How bright or dark the image is).
  2. Great battery life. You can take around 450-500 shots a charge with a Nikon D40, the smallest and lightest DSLR available. It only gets better with more expensive cameras.
  3. Great print quality. You can print great looking images with a picture made with a DSLR. Not that you cant make great prints with a P&S, its just that there is a difference and its in favour of the DSLR.
  4. Fast frame rate. This means you can just keep clicking many shots continuosly as long as you keep the release button pressed. This is not the same as burst mode. Its just continuous shooting. You'll love it for action shots and sports.
  5. Added responsiblity. This is something many people overlook! Think about this seriously. You cannot take your DSLR in your pocket. You cannot carry it in your purse. These cameras are heavy compared to a Point and Shoot camera and you need to use both your hands to get a good picture.
  6. Some amount of attention from people around you. (Especially if you are into street photography). DSLRs make you look like a PRO and to most people, it means that either you are a tourist or you work for the PRESS! So be ready for this!
  7. Camera care. Be ready to spend atleast 20mins once a month (or even a week depending on how dusty your environment is) to clean your camera. The lens is extremely delicate and needs attention. You need to care for your camera. Its your investment. As long as you do this, your camera will never disappoint you for years!
Ok, so those are briefly what you should be looking forward to if you are planning to buy a DSLR.
Now, lets look at some things that you will probably miss from your point and shoot.
  1. Manual zoom! Yes, there are NO buttons labelled "W" (wide) and "T" (Tele) on a DSLR. You need to zoom by holding the zoom ring on the lens and turning it manually. This is acually not a big deal. You'll get used to it in minutes. And you'll love it.
  2. No "live view"! This means you have to look into the viewfinder to shoot. You will not a get the live view on the screen. On newer DSLRs which are launched in 2008 and later, live view is available on certain models but not all. I prefer the viewfinder. Its lets you focus on your picture and compose the shot well. Also, it saves a lot of battery life for actual shooting.
  3. No Video! Ok, so you take a lot of short clips with your P&S. You cant do that with a DSLR. (New! Nikon D90 and Canon 5D Mark II have video modes!). Basic DSLRs cannot afford to have video modes built into them. They work in a different way compared to P&S cameras and it requires more engineering to put video abilities into DSLRs. You should be buying a camcorder if you love video and not a DSLR anyway! =)
Thats about it. Todays P&S have excellent quality and they are portable. But you'll certainly find a big difference once you shoot with a DSLR. The advantage of having interchangable lenses is something great! You can get really creative and have no limitations with an SLR camera. So if you are really thinking of getting one, as a first DSLR, get either a Nikon D40 or D60 or a Canon EOS 1000D or 450D XSi. They are the entry level models and are good value for money. I personally love Nikon and I love my D40. Dont worry about the mega pixels. Just worry about looking for cool things to photograph!

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

How does a Digital Camera make a picture?

Hey folks! Generally, in compact cameras, everything is automatic. You just point and shoot. This limits the creativity of the photographer and hence all the images look the same. In SLR cameras and certain models of compact cams, there are manual modes. In this mode, the photographer can control various functions of the camera manually to get the right look.
To understand what you can achieve, let me take you through what actually happens when you click a photo with an automatic camera. In a traditional film camera, you load the roll of film and start shooting. In this roll, there are usually around 36 exposures. Or you can make 36 photos with one roll of film. Each light-sensitive area is aligned, using an automated motorized mechanism, with the focal point of the lens. This area is approximately 35mm wide and 24 mm high. Hence the film used is called 35mm film.
Since this part of the film is light-sensitive, there is a curtain in front of it and a shutter that opens and closes to let light in. It is closed at all times except when you click.
Now, in Digital cameras, there is no film. Instead there is a light-sensitive sensor in the same place. The sensor has electronically charged pixels that grab light data as soon as light enters it just like how the chemicals of the film would react to light. When you "click", you are pressing the shutter release button. The built-in light meter will analyze the amount of light on the subject, and then rapidly open and close the shutter to let the right amount of light fall on the sensor. This is how the pixels grab all the data and convert it into an image. This is stored in a compressed form as a JPEG file. This file is displayed on the LCD screen of your camera.
That is what happens in a fraction of a second when you click a picture.
Hope it was informative! Next time, i will explain what are shutter speeds, aperture, ISO, White Balance, etc.

Cheers!

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

What are Mega Pixels?

Hey there! Did you notice that in the last post, i never mentioned anything regarding mega pixels?
Well, that's cause its not really important. Let me explain. (WARNING: Technical Stuff!)
A Pixel is a tiny single "data dot" that stores information about the three primary colors used in digital imaging: Red, Blue and Green - RGB. In any image, LCD screen or monitor, these pixels are arranged in perfect straight lines, vertically and horizontally to make a line of data in that direction. For example, your computer's screen resolution defaults to 1024x768 pixels. This means that there are 1024 Columns and 768 Rows of Pixels. Hence the number of pixels that are being used are 1024 multiplied by 768. Hence, each pixel carries a sample of the image and more pixels carry more of these samples making the image clearer and bigger at the same time.
More about this here.

What is a Mega Pixel? Its simply one million pixels. So, when a digital camera has 5 Mega pixels, it means the image it makes will have 5 million pixels in total. Lets take the example of my Nikon D40. Its a 6.1 MP camera. Which means six million pixels. How can i be sure? Its easy. The images i get from the camera are 3000x2000 pixels. Which means 6 million pixels. I Hope you get the idea now. So, when a camera is 12 MP, it is capable of making an image of size approximately 4000x3000 pixels. Note: Its not double of 6MP!! Double would be 6000x4000! So 12MP is not really much bigger than 6 MP. All this may not even be necessary to you. Then why bother? Sure more mega pixels means bigger and higher resolution pictures. But doesn't matter.

Why? Well, how many of you have bought an 8 MP pocket camera, then shot a bunch of pictures and then printed them?? I don't think anyone has. When i had a pocket camera, i shot thousands of pictures and i only printed 10-15 of them at 4x6 inches (regular photo size).
There lies the whole megapixel issue. Mega pixels only matter if you print. More mega pixels means you can print bigger. The truth is that mega pixels are a sales pitch these days and people blindly buy a camera when the salesman says "This one is 10 megapixels! Its the new model!". One can easily make 12x18inch prints out of 6 MP picture. And 12x18 inches is more than enough for the common person like me and you.
With that said, i wont let this post go longer. Mega pixels matter only if you print large. They do not bother with color, tone and saturation which are more important.

Think about finding colorful things to photograph and not how many mega pixels mine or your camera is!

Any questions and i will gladly answer! Happy Clicking!

What is a DSLR camera?

Hey there! Welcome to my photography blog! Since this is the first post, let me explain what an SLR camera is and how it is different from a compact camera.
SLR is short for Single Lens Reflex. Today, we have DSLRs which are nothing but Digital SLRs.
This blog is for everyone out there and i do not want to get into the dirty technical details of how these things work. There's this place for that! And it will scare half the people reading this and will put the other half to sleep!! So, here's what you should know. How is it different from a compact camera (also called Point and Shoot or P&S)?
Firstly, everyone should know that the camera does not matter. The camera does not make pictures. Its the photographer who makes pictures. The camera is just a tool. And is usually quite expensive and equally useful!
  1. DSLRs are made for rugged use (Not the base models). Compacts are not. You can take a DSLR into the wild, get it wet, bang it around (not intentionally!) and it will not only work, but will still help you take the picture of that subject you were looking for.
  2. DSLRs are heavy and big. They are not portable nor pocket-able like compact cameras. This is quite obvious if you have seen a DSLR.
  3. You can change lenses on a DSLR depending on what you want to shoot or the kind of photography you do and you zoom manually. Compacts have a fixed lens and you zoom them with buttons, usually labelled "W" and "T" (will tell you what they mean later).
  4. DSLRs make colorfully rich pictures, full of detail and sharpness. Compacts fail to do so due to other convinience compromises.
  5. DSLRs have a high sensitivity to light. This means you can shoot at low light without tripods at conviniently high shutterspeeds. P&S cameras cant do this well. Some do, but the pictures are too noisy ("Noisy" in photography means "dirty" or "grainy").
  6. DSLRs last long and the lenses last even longer. The lenses that your dad bought can be used today if you have the right camera. Compacts last a very short time and they are easily spoilt.
  7. Compacts have a live view of the lens. That is you just have to look into the LCD screen at the back of the camera and shoot. But, in older DSLRs (whatever they made before 2008) you have to look through the viewfinder. This actually helps you concentrate on composition and also makes you look PRO! ;) You use the LCD screen only for reviewing the images that you have shot.
  8. Finally, SLR cameras are much more expensive. The cameras used by journalists today cost around $8000. But you can get a basic DSLR for a tenth of that amount.
Thats all i can think of for now. But remember, just like a golfer does not improve as soon as he buys the most expensive golf kit out there, a photographer does not make awe-inspiring pictures as soon as he gets the best camera out there. DSLRs are the way to go PRO, no doubt. But if you cant make great shots with your Sony Cybershot or a Canon PowerShot, chances are that you will not get great shots with a DSLR. Be it a Nikon, Canon or this camera that costs as much as a brand new Mercedes Benz.

Happy Clicking!